I return to Fort Kochin for 18 short hours and in that time run into several friends made on previous visits, and I am reminded that this is such a comfortable town. It is unlike any other place I have been to in India (which is saying very little about the extent of my travels); the pace of life in Fort Kochin is so relaxed - there is little to no hustle and bustle that is common, and sometimes overwhelming, elsewhere.
The market town of Mattancherry is decidedly more lively, as it is still an important trading area where the focus is on the spice trade upon which the town was founded. Here you will find the air is redolent with ginger, which emanates from the many colonial warehouses still in use today. Near the center of this district you will find Jew Town (actual name), a colonial enclave that dates back to 1524.
Keralans have a reputation throughout India for being progressive and tolerant. Indeed, one can find a Hindu temple, an Islamic mosque, a Christian church, and a Jewish synagogue in close, and peaceful, proximity to one another.
Photo credit: John Carolin
02 April 2008
KOCHIN, BRIEFLY
01 April 2008
THE MANGALA LAKSHADWEEP EXPRESS TO ERNAKULAM
I reluctantly leave Palolem and take the Mangala Lakshadweep Express overnight to Ernakulam in order to board a flight from Cochin (COK) to Delhi. There I will collect two bags of snowboard gear from the Left Luggage office at DEL and board the return flight home to the USA.
My original return flight was scheduled for today but I didn't think it was prudent to fly on April Fools Day. This didn't keep me from riding the trains however, but I did get pranked. The railway service is a great pride of India and it is said that despite the chaos, and all the other madness, that at least the trains run on time. This isn't true - Train No. 2618 was 1.5 hours late pulling into the station at Madgaon. The arrival though, at Ernakulam Junction, was dead-on time so the railway company redeemed itself in pretty short order.
This time on the overnight train I shared a compartment with farters and snorers, and I slept fitfully with my head buried in a pillow.
28 March 2008
THE RAJDHANI EXPRESS TO GOA
Ernakulam to Madgaon by the overnight Rajdhani Express. I like railway travel and don't do it in the USA, so I opted for an express sleeper to make the 12-hour journey north.
I underestimated the coziness of the sleeper compartments and was startled to see a family of three spread out all over what little there was of a space. One berth was conspicuously left alone however it was not mine, which was a lower berth (requested and reserved). When I declined to switch berths the air went cold and inhospitable and the father asked about my home origin.
All parties turned in almost immediately and in the morning when I awoke I discovered they were gone, going down at an earlier station, and the compartment was free for the remaining few hours. About as good as it gets on a train.
26 March 2008
THE BACKWATERS OF ALLEPPEY
Alleppey, or Alapphuza, is a nice spot for a trip into the backwaters but the town itself is a snoozer. I call it Allapalooza, which it's not. Instead of a tourist boat I traversed the backwaters by government water taxi and saw pretty much the same thing.
THE QUEEN VICTORIA AT KOCHIN
The Queen Victoria of the Cunard Line calls on Fort Kochin.
Photo credit: Cunard Line
23 March 2008
EASTER SUNDAY, KERALA
At Munnar I discover that Christianity is a very strong religious influence in this region. At every turn there were processions in the streets celebrating Easter.
Photo credit: John Carolin
Having a good shave in the morning was one of the small luxuries I had planned on months before I left for India. The neighborhood barbershop is generally easy to find, and is often my first stop of the day. Here a friend is getting tuned up for Easter. You have to trust your barber, so relax!
Photo credit: MHIP
22 March 2008
THE TEA COUNTRY OF MUNNAR
Photo credit: MHIP
Photo credit: MHIP
Photo credit: John Carolin
Photo credit: MHIP
19 March 2008
18 March 2008
THE MISTY MOUNTAIN HOP TO MUNNAR
Photo credit: MHIP
Photo credit: John Carolin
I don't like stuff in my soup, and I don't like eggs. Here I get both and I'm not happy.
Photo credit: John Carolin
17 March 2008
16 March 2008
FORT KOCHIN, KERALA
On arrival we unwittingly commence four days of unintentional laziness. Failure to cement plans, playing as it comes, both were responsible for this new, sedentary pattern after re-locating from Kashmir, though it was the heat that spanked me into repose at Fort Cochin. I was reminded of a year past February, of fitful, three-hour siestas in the heat and humidity of Panama. The weather was similar here, and the rising temperatures signalled the waning of peak tourist season.
Transients dawdle at places like Oy’s Café upon finding a sociable, comfortable atmosphere with food and a great staff. More stylish is Kashi’s, a larger, cooler space with very nice food from a simple, daily specials menu.
Photo credit(s): John Carolin
07 March 2008
KASHMIR TO KERALA
I begin the journey from Kashmir, the northernmost state in India, to Kerala, its most southerly state. The trip starts at SXR where (after the tightest airport security one has ever witnessed) I meet up with John, winner of the 1st Global Snowboard Marathon held at Gulmarg. Here he displays the trophy clinched by mostly straightlining Affarwat top-to-bottom to earn the fastest time. A little trophy goes a long way; John ended up as an honorary guest in the First Class lounge at SXR.
Photo credit: MHIP
Snowboarding was the sole reason I had come to India; I had no travel plans beyond Gulmarg in Kashmir when I bought flight tickets and set out from home. However, on my latest visit to Srinagar there was news that my dogged pursuit of compensation from Jet Airlines (for my missing baggage) had produced an additional bonus - a R/T ticket anywhere in the country from DEL. I chose Kerala, it was about as far as one could go. (Here I am, trying to see what a little trophy can do for me - with luck (lots) it will enhance my charms).
Photo credit: John Carolin
