BLAST RIPS THROUGH SRINAGAR, PEACE ENDS

Blast Rips Through City Centre, Breaks Lull, Wounds 16 - Kashmir Observer, 19 March 2008.

UPDATE: Fire in Gulmarg's High Altitude Warfare School - Kashmir Observer, 24 March 2008.
UPDATE: 15 Soldiers, 64 Militants Killed in 2008 - Kashmir Observer, 24 March 2008.

CALL FOR GULMARG PHOTOS & COMMENTS

Thank you to the skiers & riders toting cameras this season at Gulmarg. From your generosity and passion for mountain, sport, and art come the images that better illustrate Gulmarg than my words alone can do. Special thanks to Alex, Andrew, John, and Sam, for the photos I am able to submit today from Delhi. Further submissions, comments, corrections are fully welcomed.
Photo credit: Alex Griffiths
Hat credit: Sam's Gramma



Photo credit: Dave Watson

KASHMIR TO KERALA

I begin the journey from Kashmir, the northernmost state in India, to Kerala, its most southerly state. The trip starts at SXR where (after the tightest airport security one has ever witnessed) I meet up with John, winner of the 1st Global Snowboard Marathon held at Gulmarg. Here he displays the trophy clinched by mostly straightlining Affarwat top-to-bottom to earn the fastest time. A little trophy goes a long way; John ended up as an honorary guest in the First Class lounge at SXR.
Photo credit: MHIP


Snowboarding was the sole reason I had come to India; I had no travel plans beyond Gulmarg in Kashmir when I bought flight tickets and set out from home. However, on my latest visit to Srinagar there was news that my dogged pursuit of compensation from Jet Airlines (for my missing baggage) had produced an additional bonus - a R/T ticket anywhere in the country from DEL. I chose Kerala, it was about as far as one could go. (Here I am, trying to see what a little trophy can do for me - with luck (lots) it will enhance my charms).
Photo credit: John Carolin

MILKSHAKES & PIZZAS IN SRINAGAR

All on this same day I discover excellent milkshakes at the Sanaa Ice Cream Shop (Residency Road near the Central Market gate), brick-oven pizzas at the mod Caffe Arabica (on the M.A. Road, in front of Hotel Broadway), and I get the news from home of the re-opening of O'Rourke's Diner, Middletown, CT USA. Have I fallen out of the sky and landed in a basket of tits? I'm so happy! (Later this day I learn of a fresh, unforecasted 30cm of snow waiting when I return to Gulmarg).
Photo credit: Alex Griffiths



This was all Alex's idea.
Photo credit: MHIP










Sam had bragged about having three legs - I never suspected he'd have four!
Photo credit: Alex Griffiths

DAL LAKE, SRINAGAR

The view east from Dal Lake. Though Srinagar is in a large valley, one is always aware of the mountains nearby.
Photo credit: John Carolin







Morning at Dal Lake, Srinagar. The houseboats of Srinagar have a long and curious history, and one facet is this interesting account on the origin of houseboat names.
Photo credit: Griffiths/Smith







It's pretty early in the morning to be pulling tubes like that - Kashmiri Breakfast.
Photo credit: Griffiths/Smith







Dal Lake is a beautiful spot but is dying from its own success. While staying on a houseboat I witnessed the Protests in Srinagar Against Government Apathy Towards Dal Lake - Kashmir Observer, 4 March 2008.
Photo credit: Griffiths/Smith

THE PAKHTOON PALACE, DAL LAKE, SRINAGAR

Initially, a houseboat registered no interest for me on the inbound leg of my trip to Gulmarg as it was winter and some parts of the lake were frozen. The weather was grim. Now, having left Gulmarg on the pretext of spring conditions, I had a great opportunity to join with three friends who had reserved a six-bed, 3BR houseboat, the Pakhtoon Palace, which has a great location at Dal Lake.
Photo credit: MHIP



A houseboat similar to the Pakhtoon Palace.
Photo credit: John Carolin







Life on the houseboat is quite nice, especially after spending the season at Gulmarg. It is highly recommended that you stay on a houseboat as you leave town after the season. If you first stay at Dal Lake and then go to Gulmarg you will already know what you are missing. No digs at Gulmarg compare for comfort or civility.
Photo credit: John Carolin

THE HOTEL ALPINE RIDGE, PT. THREE

Due to hit the shelves in the fall of 2008: Snowboard Canada, with a full-feature trip report, shot on location in Kashmir. SBC is a great magazine that too few American or European riders recognize; it is hard to find on sale outside Canada, and it is not available online. To my knowledge, when published this would be the first article on Gulmarg for a snowboard magazine in North America. Kudos!

Shooting stills for the piece is BC lens guy John Scarth, in Gulmarg with Carlo Wein as part of the Alterna Films crew, shooting a film (rumored to be named after an over-proof beverage) for release in the fall of 2008. In Transit, and Apples & Oranges are two of their previous films. Both are excellent, so in their new film look for the best high-quality footage of Gulmarg since the Warren Miller crew was in town.

We watched as they arrived at the taxi drop and they looked as bewildered as our crew did when we arrived. After all the traveling to get to Gulmarg, you may find yourself at arrival in the fading light, a hundred yards from your hotel, with a hundred pounds of gear, looking at narrow pathways stamped in the hip-deep snow. Pile your stuff on a sledge and have it hauled to your digs.

When we desperately needed entertainment, Carlo gave Sam a copy of Apples & Oranges, which went directly to heavy rotation on the laptops at the Hotel Alpine Ridge for the remainder of the season. Here is the banger trailer:



UPDATE: Alterna Action Films Knockout! premieres in Vancouver, 9 October 2008, and Snowboard Canada opens its winter run with a full-feature article on Gulmarg. Read this post from the blog Gulmarg '08/09.

EATING & DRINKING IN KASHMIR

If you are going to spend any time at all in Kashmir it pays to do a little homework on the subject of the local cuisine, otherwise you may be intimidated by its appearance, its aroma, and the presentation. Without knowing what you are looking for in advance you may find yourself reduced to eating the same old standards, missing out on a truly interesting epicurean experience.

I made the mistake of not following my own advice and arrived blindly in Srinagar, without the slightest idea of how I was going to happily load my feedbag. As a result I was forced to experiment with several dubious meals, and frankly, the general stench in Srinagar did not stimulate my appetite in any positive manner. Furthermore, I learned pretty quickly that the main protein ingredient is mutton, a meat I find totally unappealing.

Do yourself a favor and consult the following websites, or risk eating meals of vegetable mash and rice, or worse, biscuits and soda.

Cuisines of Jammu and Kashmir
Wazwan - The Heart and Soul of Kashmiri Cuisine by Bindiya
Photo credit: John Carolin

SRINAGAR - ONE THOUSAND SHADES OF BROWN

Owing to the fact that there are currently no operating internet facilities, nor a pharmacy, in Gulmarg, I return (briefly) to Srinagar to buy meds, western food treats (at the Pick n' Choose on Residency Road), and to update this blog. I am reminded of my first impressions of Srinagar - worn brick, crumbly concrete, rusted tin, uniforms, and a thousand shades of brown. More later...
Photo credit: John Carolin

AVALANCHE WARNINGS FOR KASHMIR

VIDEO: Avalanche warning in Srinagar - Reuters, 6 February 2008.

DEEP SNOW, DEEP FREEZE SETTLES ON GULMARG

Although a few of mankind's eternal problems - politics and religion - have abated recently in the valley, Mother Nature is now challenging the residents of Kashmir, delivering the most severe cold weather in recent history. Deep snowfalls this winter have delighted skiers at Gulmarg, but the latest cold spell has frozen the entire water supply system in this resort town.

Water scarcity has also been a problem this winter in Srinagar. If that weren't bad enough, striking wholesalers in Delhi have deprived Kashmiris of mutton, the favorite food. Butchers in the region have opted to sell poultry, but that is now threatened by an outbreak of avian bird flu. Have a seat!
Photo credit: John Reid-Hresko

Chalai Kalan: Coldest Period Ends but People Still Shiver - Tribune, 31 January 2008.
Snowfall: Water Sources Freeze in Gulmarg - Tribune, 29 January 2008.
Water Shortage Hits Gulmarg - Greater Kashmir, 28 January 2008.
Indian Bird Flu Disease 'Alarming' - BBC, 28 January 2008.
Mutton Shops Closed, Selling Chicken in Kashmir - Web India, 13 January 2008.
Learn how Kashmiris cope with winter. Read "Chillay Kalaan", Sakooter, 25 December 2007.

PEACEFUL REPUBLIC DAY IN KASHMIR

Srinagar and the surrounding areas of Kashmir remained peaceful and calm during the annual observation of Republic Day, 26 January 2008. Despite predictions of terrorist activity, the valley did not experience the violence that has marred the national holiday in previous years.

The run-up to Republic Day was marked by increasing tensions in Srinagar as government forces stepped up planned search and surveillance operations. Furthermore, the observation of a holiday boycott, known as "Black Day" in Srinagar, resulted in a widespread shutdown of transportation and retail services, which only added to the woes of city-dwellers.

Fears of violence based on past history were heightened last week as police discovered and seized 8kg of RDX explosives meant to disrupt Republic Day celebrations.
Photo credit: Kashmir Media Service

Incident-Free Republic Day in State - Tribune, 27 January 2008.
Red Alert in Kashmir - Tribune, 25 January 2008.
Top Militant Killed in Kashmir - BBC, 24 January 2008.
Terror Plan Foiled, 8kg RDX Seized - Tribune, 24 January 2008.

REPUBLIC DAY IN SRINAGAR

It's clear: Anyone in Srinagar on or around 26 January 2008 should avoid market areas, parades, demonstrations, and stadiums. Keep your eyes and ears open, and your head low. Best wishes to all concerned - Power to the Peaceful!

"While elsewhere in the country people are eager to celebrate Republic Day, the same brings miseries and sufferings to the Kashmir valley people. In run-up to the occasion, life was badly hit in this turbulent valley. People were desperate to see this day through. Given the extraordinary importance associated with it, the militants and security forces were hell-bent on upstaging each other. The militants in the valley are on their toes to disrupt the celebrations and demonstrate to the world that they are against it. And at the same time, Indian security forces as usual struggle to conduct smoothly the Republic Day to show to the international community that Kashmiris are part of it. And in the process ordinary people bore the brunt." Amin Masoodi for IPCS, 4 February 2004.

Terrorists Plan to Strike Before Republic Day - DNA, 3 January 2008.
Sporadic Violence as India Marks Republic Day - Reuters, 26 January 2007.
India Marks Republic Day Amid Heavy Security - IHT, 26 January 2007.
Police Killed in Attacks Before Republic Day - ABC, 24 January 2007.
Grenade Attacks on Kashmir Police - AJ, 22 January 2007.
Srinagar Wears Deserted Look - Tribune, 26 January 2006.
Separatists Call for Strike on Republic Day - Tribune, 24 January 2006.
Kashmir to Observe Republic Day as "Black Day" - PT, 25 January 2004.
India Tells of Foiling Uprising in Kashmir - NYT, 29 January 1990.
New Delhi Tells Residents of Srinagar to Stay Indoors - NYT, 27 January 1990.
For more opinion read the post "Republic Day of India", Zarafshan, 22 January 2007.
Photo credit: MHIP

WATER SCARCITY IN SRINAGAR

GK NEWS NETWORK , 12 January 2008:
There is acute shortage of drinking water in many parts of City since Saturday morning causing immense hardships to the people. Hundreds of people could be seen standing in queues waiting to receive water from the tankers, dispatched by Public Health Engineering Department to many areas of the City including Shehar-e-Khass.

UPDATE: Mutton Shops Closed - New Kerala, 13 January 2008.
SPECIAL REPORT: "Kashmir's Wintry Highs & Lows" is a poignant account of hardship, by Mufti Islah.

Life is hard in Kashmir: shortages of food, water, and heating fuel amidst coldest winter.

NATIONAL HIGHWAY SHUTS DOWN/RE-OPENS

KT NEWS SERVICE SRINAGAR, 11 January 2008:
After remaining closed for three consecutive days, Srinagar-Jammu highway reopened today. The road was initially reopened for one way but the stranded vehicles on both sides were allowed to proceed towards their respective destinations. Meanwhile Melerological department officials predict weather conditions will improve.

UPDATE: 3000 Stranded on Kashmir Highway - New Kerala, 13 January 2008.
UPDATE: 16 January 2008 - Snowfall in Srinagar, Highway Closed...Kashmir valley cut off yet again.
UPDATE: 19 January 2008 - Highway Nightmare Ends for Stranded.

MAJOR SNOWFALL IN GULMARG

Two to Six Feet of Snowfall at Gulmarg:
Cold, Power Failures Hit Kashmir - GK.
Norwegian Snowboarder Missing - GK.
Kashmir Avalanche Kills 15 - BBC.

UPDATE: 15 January 2008 - Norwegian Skier Disappears in Gulmarg
UPDATE: 18 January 2008 - Missing...Search continues.
UPDATE: Bodies of Six Recovered From Snow After 40 Days - Kashmir Observer, 18 February 2008.
UPDATE: Search Operations to Find Foreign Tourist Intensified - Kerala Next, 06 April 2008.
UPDATE: Missing Norwegian Skier Found Dead - Kashmir Observer, 22 April 2008.
UPDATE: Body of Norwegian skier found - GK, 21 April 2008.

Do I want to return? Yes. Will I be prepared? Somewhat. Will I bring avy gear? Definitely!
Photo credit: doughboyshredder

TRAVEL TIPS FROM DAN'S BLOG

How Safe is Kashmir For A Tourist? ~ Kashmir ~
Although 18 months old (at the time of this post), the article is fairly accurate and contains some handy tips for anyone travelling to Kashmir. Interesting, and recommended.
The Terrorists of Al-Qaeshmir ~ Kashmir ~
Satire and perspective. Dan explains how the Indian state portrays the Kashmiri, and how they are viewed by Western analysts.

PHOTOS FROM OWAIS ZARGAR

Photojournalist currently at work in Kashmir. He has a fine collection from Srinagar that is very current, entitled "Winter In Kashmir". A mixture of the prosaic and the political landscape.
Photo credit: Owais Zargar

POLITICS

It never came up in conversation. Ever. Which I am happy about because the news on TV is scary. It's all about border tensions: The Chinese are stupidly making incursions in the northeast; in the west the Punjab news is all about militants; a supremacist has won the Gujarat elections; up north in Nepal Maoists ended the monarchy and there is agitation for splitting the nation in two. Bombs, train derailings, and other violence fill Delhi TV. But even though Srinagar is located within striking distance of Afghanistan, China, and Pakistan, it is peaceful. The local paper has its share of petty crimes, but no militants, no bombs, no anything that all those troops weren't handling.

UPDATE: 24 December 2007 - Five Civilians Taken Hostage
UPDATE: 24 December 2007 - Police End Kashmir Mosque Siege
SPECIAL REPORT: Kashmir Flashpoint

Like I said, politics never come up. I just wanted to get this picture in somehow.

THE GRAND HOTEL, PT. THREE

The broken key and locked door and all of it was resolved personally by the owner of the hotel. Despite initial problems I was rewarded for patience: the owners and staff of the Grand were great hosts who helped me through a rough patch - I stayed a week.

On Residency Road near the intersection with Poloview, the Grand Hotel is adjacent to the largest open spaces in the entire city. The Mughal Darbar Restaurant & Bakery is a short walk, recommended. Also close by are the Jet Airways office, the Net Surfer Café, and the Pick ‘n Choose Market, where you can find peanut butter, Nutella, and incredibly – Bonne Maman jams from France.

The Kashmiri that I meet are universally polite. Without exception I was made welcome in hotels & restaurants, offered coffee and a comfortable seat in offices, and invited into homes, even to stay in a sick bed. No one was ever rude to me and I was never menaced about my nationality. People on the street were sometimes curious but mainly indifferent to me.

Back at the Grand the Srinagar flu persisted in me four days and claimed Waseem and others. My agony would have been far worse without the comforts of room service. It was usually the friendly Bilal who broke the isolation with deliveries of soup and the hot water bottles I'd place in my sleeping bag. When the power was out, or the central heating was taking a break, it was easy to get chilled. My mind was on those less fortunate who lived in Srinagar and worried about the winter. These were the coldest days of the season to date if you read the news, and the stories were of closed mountain passes and kerosene heating fuel shortages.
Photo credit: MHIP